So you might have noticed (in the 8 hours that this site has been up and running!) that I refer to Qatar as “the land of almost.” This little endearment a friend shared with me has become a favorite way of mine of thinking about this wacky place that I live.
Qatar almost gets it. The second richest country in the world is still shockingly behind the times. One reminder of that was the headline in the local paper today noting that streets will soon…wait for it…Be given street names and numbers!!
Imagine a major city with few to none street names.
There’s no postal delivery to homes because no one has an address. Some people have P.O. boxes, but, in yet another example of almost-ness, there is a terrible shortage of them. Most people end up using their employer’s P.O. box.
Trying to give directions to deliverymen is a nightmare, using landmarks and counting intersections and roundabouts. Once we spent over an hour trying to get the McDonald’s man to find our house. (Yes, McDonald’s delivers here, as does every other fast food joint.) In our new home, we’ve given up on it and just ask them to meet us at the nearby gas station to either pick up food or to follow us home for larger items.
Now, Qatar is nothing if not bureaucratic, so all street name suggestions will be submitted by government officials to a street naming committee, so it could be years before we actually see any progress on this front.
Another way that Qatar almost gets things right is in traffic enforcement. There’s been a big push in the last two years to reduce traffic violations, which is a good thing, since Qatar ranks highest in the world for traffic fatalities per capita. But it’s the way it’s done that drives me nuts. It’s all done by traffic cameras. They monitor speed, red-light-runners, and well, that’s about it. Regular human police officers don’t seem to get involved in dangerous driving. I’ve never once seen a police officer pull someone over, regardless of how outrageous their driving behavior is. Maybe if people knew that they could be pulled over and ticketed at any time (rather than just knowing where the cameras are and behaving for the 5 seconds it takes to pass them), things would improve drastically.
Another interesting thing along the same lines is that the ticket goes with the car, not the driver since the radar camera obviously has no idea who is driving. This means that people here have actually figured out that you can pay some poor guy to go to the police and claim to have been driving, taking the points for the true offender for a measly amount of money. This leaves the worst drivers with the best records.
Then there is the ever-present problem of importing things. You would think that a country that produces nothing but gas and oil would have streamlined the procedures for getting goods into the country. And yet, there are two stores that are “about” to open “any day now” that every expat woman in Doha are dreaming of. Spinney’s and Dean & Deluca have been supposedly ready since prior to Christmas. However, there are no goods to stock the shelves with. Employees have been hired and trained months ago and keep themselves busy dusting the empty shelves. It seems to be impossible to place orders, get them through customs and onto the shelves in reasonable time.
When we moved here, Doha was in the midst of a bid for the 2016 Summer Olympics. Of course, they didn’t win (have I mentioned that temps in the summer here range upwards of 120 degrees??), with the honor going instead to Rio. But they have vowed to try again. So don’t you think that it would have been a good show on their part to actually carry the recent Winter Olympics on a single station? I didn’t get to watch a single minute of the Olympics this year, for the first time ever.
And most recently, it was announced that most people would no longer be able to get visas upon arriving in Qatar, but would have to get them in advance of leaving home. However, it seems that no embassies were given instructions to the effect, no guidelines as to what was necessary to gain a visa were given and it was a huge mass of confusion as to why it was happening. (Personally, I’d wager it was due to the recent Mossad assassination in Dubai – an attempt to be more careful about who it allows into the country – a good thing.) But it was so poorly executed and not thought out that just two weeks before the new regulations were to go into effect, it’s been announced that the plan has been put on hold “indefinitely.”
And so it goes. Qatar is trying to move into the future and there are lots of things it’s doing right. It’s focusing on becoming a mecca of education and culture in the Middle East and it’s doing that pretty well. It’s seen unprecedented growth and I don’t imagine it’s easy to keep up with that. But it just seems as though it’s always “almost” getting it right.